Tattooing has been around for thousands of years, positioning it as a central point of culture for millennia. It wasn’t until 1891 that Samuel O’Reilly patented the first electric tattoo machine - an adaptation of Thomas Edison’s electric pen - that modern methods came into the picture and artists were able to work faster and more consistently.
In this article, we’ll be taking a look at the history of tattooing from that point when the industry entered its modern era to present day, including:
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How Sailor Jerry’s “East meets West” style built the foundations for American tattooing
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The evolution of tattooing from an underground practice to respected art form
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Changes tattooing has seen in the last 10 years and their effects on current artists
1920s | The Key Turning Point: Sailor Jerry’s Introduction to Tattooing
Evidence of tattoos has been found on human remains dating back to 5000 B.C. They also played a major role in tribal societies, a tradition that’s still alive today.
In all these cases, tattooing was done by hand, often with a bamboo or metal stick with a needle secured at the end. The artist would “tap” the needle into the skin and pull slightly up, scraping the ink off and leaving it in place under the skin.
However, when it comes to tattooing as we know it today, many artists point to Sailor Jerry as the most notable pioneer in the industry. He not only improved upon O’Reilly’s original machine design, crafting his own tattoo machines, but he also pioneered the “old school” style that is still popular today.
Motifs and Modern Artistry: Crafting an Iconic Style
While being considered the Father of American Traditional tattooing, Sailor Jerry (born Norman Keith Collins), pieced together the style from a variety of influences.
Collins started tattooing in the 1920s in Chicago in his late teens under the mentorship of Gib “Tatts” Thomas. It’s easy to see the influence Thomas’ style had with his fusion of Victorian-era tattooing and Western-style tattoos inspired by carnival sideshows (snakes, daggers, etc.) and military symbols like eagles and the U.S. flag.
During his time in the U.S. Navy, Collins traveled across Asia, building relationships with Japanese tattoo artists. This led him to blend his mentor’s Western style with inspiration from Eastern tattoo methods and artistry. Seeing the precise linework and detailed shading used in Japanese irezumi, Collins adopted their techniques alongside the craft’s use of motifs, flow, an expanded color palette, and a meticulous setup process for a more sanitary workstation.
This hybrid approach led to patriotic and nautical themes (anchors, ships, eagles, and more) that incorporated the heavier shading and precise linework he learned while abroad. Sailor Jerry then passed his style, as well as his studio in Honolulu, on to his apprentice Mike Malone. However, he influenced many iconic artists across the country, including Ed Hardy.
1960s | New Heights: Ed Hardy’s Commitment to Tattooing’s Recognition as a Fine Art Form
Still an up-and-coming artist in the late 1960s, Ed Hardy sent a letter to Sailor Jerry praising his innovative style after seeing his flash art. And while Sailor Jerry wasn’t an official mentor to Hardy, the two kept up a long correspondence in which Collins shared tattooing technique, Japanese irezumi, and his hopes for the tattoo industry to continue on its path of refinement and respect.
During this time, Sailor Jerry also introduced Hardy to Horihide, a Japanese tattoo master. Hardy eventually traveled to Japan to learn traditional tebori tattooing from. This caused Hardy to incorporate more Japanese aesthetics into his American technique and introduce large-scale body suits in the United States. His work helped elevate tattooing as a serious fine art form.
1990s | Artistry Explosion: New Styles Enter the Industry
As more artists began to view human skin as a canvas for fine art, a wave of new styles and inspirations worked their way into the tattoo industry. By the ‘90s, personal identity and cultural influences became a central part of tattoo artistry.
Artists like Jack Rudy developed black and gray photorealism. Leo Zulueta, inspired by Polynesian and Maori traditions, brought bold tribal designs back to the forefront while Guy Aitchison created colorful biomechanical designs for a surreal aesthetic.
New School introduced loud color and graffiti-inspired design while pulling on pop culture and humor, bringing a new dynamic to what tattoos were expected to be.
2000s | The Attention Shift: Tattoo Television and Celebrity Artists
As the early 2000s rolled in, tattooing saw a major shift. Once an “underground” scene populated mostly by seasoned sailors, rebellious artists, and those who purposefully placed themselves on the outskirts of society, tattooing was positioned front and center by the media.
Tattooing television shows like Miami Ink and Ink Master brought tattooing to the mainstream and launched some of the first “celebrity” tattoo artists.
The results of such a sudden move were mixed. With tattooing gaining popularity - and more acceptance - artists saw an influx of clientele. However, with the popularity came a sense of commercialization.
2010s | Customization and Specialization: Tattooing in the Public Eye
By the 2010s, tattooing had not only made its way into mainstream popularity, but the desire for custom pieces that stand out from the crowd had quickly grown. Custom designs and appointment-only studios became more common, as artists began to curate extremely specialized tattoo portfolios filled with their personal, recognizable style that clients couldn’t get anywhere else.
From fine line tattoos to watercolor, artists began to show their specialized style online and grow massive followings on new social platforms like Instagram. The ability to be found by clients all over the world and not just in their immediate local area opened up opportunities for artists while simultaneously introducing a new aspect to the business of tattooing: branding and marketing.
2020s | Innovation in Tattooing and Technology
Current-day tattooing has seen an explosion of innovation as artists have integrated technology to support their art. Tattoo machines built for specific techniques and styles, precise design tools, and expanding safety standards surrounding ink and materials have continued to push tattooing into becoming the revered and respected industry that early tattoo artists set the groundwork for.
As artists keep pushing the boundaries of what’s possible on skin, the quality of modern tattooing has continued to skyrocket.
The Future of Tattooing: The Constant of Art is Evolution
In the last century, tattooing has seen massive changes in both the artwork and the tools used to create it. One thing that a closer look at the history of modern tattooing reveals is that the one constant in our industry is its evolution. As artists continue to adapt to the culture and technology around them, they continue to push their own artistry and society’s expectations.
However, as the industry continues to move forward, the main goal of tattooing has and always will remain the same: to help people tell their stories in the most meaningful way possible.